Friday 11 February 2011

Mango Coconut Creme Brulee

I did promise that we would also be including reviews of places to find inspired – or even just decent – vegetarian food, which would of course give us the perfect excuse to eat out more regularly.

Returning to one of my old favourites in Manchester, the Thai restaurant Chaophraya, I was deeply disappointed. What used to be an exquisite platter of vegetarian tapas had now been transformed into a bizarre selection of indistinguishable deep-fried blobs with a fiery salad overpowered by fishy nam pla! The most interesting sounding dessert (green tea and coconut cream crepe) arrived with ice cream that resembled the inside of an Arctic Roll. It was all very hard work, despite providing a moderately acceptable photo. However… it did make me think about how to combine Asian flavours with traditional European desserts.



Mango Coconut Crème Brûlée
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Ingredients

250mg mango puree
150ml coconut cream (not milk)
100ml double cream
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
¼ tsp cinnamon powder
1-2tsp lime juice
4 tbsp cater sugar

Makes 4 small brûlées
It is becoming increasingly difficult to find ripe, flavoursome mangoes. For cooked desserts, unless I can find the luscious Alphonso, which has a very short season (April to May), I often use canned slices or puree.

If you are using a fresh mango, cut down towards the flesh to create a ‘hedgehog’ effect as shown in the picture below. An average mango should yield approximately 150-200mg pulp, then pop the slices in a small blender and pulse until you have a thick puree.


Spoon 150mg along with the two creams and the sugar into a small pan and bring to just below boiling point, stirring occasionally. Although it might be more authentic to use a dark sugar, that turns the crème rather too dark I find. Have a taste at this stage before adding the eggs – you may find it needs a little more sugar.

Then whisk the egg and egg yolks in a bowl and slowly pour into the crème, whisking all the time. Pour the mixture into 4 small ramekins and place in a roasting pan half full of hot water. If like me, you find it hard to manoeuvre this into the oven just pour the water in after you have popped the pan on the oven shelf.  Bake at Gas 2/150C for 25-30 minutes until just set but a bit wobbly.

Take the puddings out of the pan and let them cool. Sprinkle a tablespoon of caster sugar onto each and use a small blow torch to create a thin caramelized topping. If you don’t have a blow torch (or find it difficult to fill as I do) place the puddings on a baking tray and caramelize under a hot grill. Do remember that the ramekins will be very hot once you have completed this stage!

For the accompanying coulis just process the remaining mango with the cinnamon and lime juice, again you may want to add a little extra sugar. Serve as below, with a raspberry or two.


Tuesday 8 February 2011

Spinach Roulade with Red Pepper, Olives and Goats Cheese

Marise and I have just run one of long standing favourite courses, Easy Vegetarian Entertaining. Part of the key is remaining calm and relaxed and here she is to prove the point! This recipe of Marise’s has been a winner on so many occasions, particularly when catering for special events such as weddings and birthdays. Even hardened carnivores have been heard to say “I never knew vegetarian food could taste so good – I even had seconds!” It’s partly the colours which make it so splendid, but I think it’s mainly the fabulous balance of flavours that makes it absolutely amazing.



Spinach Roulade with Red Pepper, Olives and Goats Cheese
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Ingredients


For the roulade
20g butter
50g onion, very finely chopped
200g frozen spinach, defrosted and most of the liquid  
4tbs crème fraiche
Pinch nutmeg
to taste            salt and pepper
4 large free range eggs, separated
For the filling
150g light Philadephia cream cheese
60g Somerset goat’s cheese
50g red pepper, very finely diced
30 – 40g pitted Nicoise olives*,(to taste), finely diced
a little milk to mix if needed

Serves 6

For the roulade, lightly sauté the onion in the butter until soft but not coloured. Then squeeze as much liquid as possible out of the spinach through a sieve lined with thick kitchen towel – or you could use a tea towel. Take a large bowl and mix the spinach and onion with the crème fraiche, nutmeg (which really complements the spinach). Season well and beat in the egg yolks.

Using a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff – but not dry – and fold them into the spinach mixture. Don’t worry this is much less stressful than making a soufflé, all you need to do is introduce some air to keep the roulade light. Pour into a shallow baking tin (25cm x 35cm) lined with baking paper and spread flat. Bake for 10-12 minutes at 200C/Gas 6 until it feels firm and springy.

Take out of the oven and turn out onto another piece of baking paper (larger than the tin) placed on a cooling rack. Carefully peel off the piece of baking paper that the spinach has been cooked on. Use the paper on the cooling rack to roll up the spinach mixture, rolling the paper inside.  Cover with a clean tea towel to prevent drying out and leave to cool.

To make the filling mash the two cheeses together and then mix in the red pepper and enough olives to taste – take care not to add too many olives as they can make the filling very salty. (If you prefer Kalamata that is fine). Chill for at least 30 minutes before filling – otherwise the filling will be too runny – it needs to be fairly firm. If you find it is too thick however just mix in a very little milk.

Finally, carefully unroll the spinach and spread with the filling, leaving a 3cm border top and bottom. Fold the bottom border up over the filling, then carefully roll up the roulade. Turn the roulade so that it sits on the join. Wrap in cling film and chill, still with the join underneath.

It looks great served cut in slices, garnished with salad spinach leaves and paprika and, if you like, a few olives and strips of red pepper.